The NYT rails against white privilege and purports to be the defender of public schools, champion of the homeless, illegals, petty criminals, ex-cons and other disadvantaged members of our society, especially on its editorial page. But if you check its advertising, you won’t find Chick -Fil-A or Target and if you go to its restaurant reviews you’ll find the truth that can’t be masked and certainly deserves mocking.

On Wed Nov 20th, a week before our nation celebrates the humble holiday of Thanksgiving, long time food critic Pete Wells had these choice comments on the food at the newly revised Gotham Restaurant and its brand new chef. “Try the Baywater Sweet oysters farmed in the Hood Canal in Washington State; they’re creamy enough to bring on a swoon, but instead of the mignonette that might keep the fat in check, Ms. Blamey spoons a cauliflower and white chocolate puree into each shell. Half vegetable, half candy, it upstages the black pearls of caviar on top. . . . Triangles of foie gras torchon under a translucent layer of black-truffle jelly are really quite fluffy and rich, even by the standards of foie gras torchons. So of course Ms. Blamey serves it with butter - kombu butter, which goes so well with the warm kombu brioche.” About the cabbage, Wells added these salient observations “. . . she uses the caraflex variety, tender and virtually ribless - dressed with sugary brown juice pressed from charred onions; golden pearls of fregola give the dish the heft of a main course.”

Although this exalted language, much of it requiring a dictionary for the average reader, goes on for several more paragraphs, you get the point. Years ago, Mr. Wells reviewed a restaurant on the upper east side and lambasted its snobbish uptown clientele, never mentioning in his downtown reviews that those diners fall into the same demographic of one percenters. Of course this is precisely for whom the Times tolls, so for “the greatest tarte tatin in the city, a ring of apples in a state of collapse on a Frisbee of puff pastry,” they will know where to eat and be seen.

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